Tennessean Article Today
Suzy Wong’s House of Yum exemplifies its tasty name In China the dragon is a symbol of imperial power and good fortune; two dragons means doubly blessed. http://www.suzywongsnashville.com/“>At Suzy Wong’s House of Yum, that symbol is no stranger. On the front display window, the entwined tails of two dragons portend good dining fortune. Flying the ceiling’s length in the form of a spectacular painted-pieced kite, those dragons oversee the clever-campy restaurant where you can slip in to enjoy Asian-inspired cocktails and tapas. This latest Arnold Myint (of http://www.pmnashville.com/“>PM and http://chachahnashville.com/“>Cha-Chah) creation, in partnership with Zeus Enterprises (Tribe, Play), has transformed former restaurant Red’s shotgun spot on Church Street into a fun, seductive space, combining modern and retro elements with an underworld mystique of the Orient. Taking its name from the 1960 film The World of Suzie Wong, the love story of an ex-pat artist in Hong Kong and a prostitute, this Suzy’s House of Yum is a self-described brothel of epicurean delight. Set in dark purpled tones with rosy-red up-lighting, the restaurant offers numerous arrangements where you can linger over a lychee cocktail or nosh on pot-stickers: cushioned banquettes, ottomans and a singular rippled curved booth. There’s fun in the details: Tables flicker with votives decorated with images of Suzy Wong women. The pop-art tapas plates spell out YUM! Period films, soundless, move across the flat-screen by the granite bar. Through the back door, the multi-tiered and bamboo-landscaped lounge and patio, furnished with contemporary low-slung sofas and private cabanas, provide compelling outdoor seating options. A full bar is offered, with ample wine selections. But the atmosphere warrants an exotic cocktail as the food’s accomplice. Seven designer drinks top the list. La Nouvelle Mode was complex, heady: mixing Yamazaki aged whiskey with ginger-infused cognac, orange and cherry — ideal for refined sipping on cool nights. Ginger notes abound. They’re smoky in the Yazi Ginger Orange-Ade; fragrant, floral, in Lolita’s Kiss. The sweet, refreshing Lychee Cocktail combined lychee vodka and liqueur with lime, ginger ale and the fruit itself, bobbing like a large opalescent grape in the glass. The style of dining is designed for sharing: a series of small plates and bowls. There are numerous vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free dishes, all of which are clearly denoted on the menu. If you like loaded nachos, the Suzy Wong style will appeal — wonton crisps layered with pulled pork, queso, edamame and red curry crema. For lighter fare, try the delicately crafted vegetable gyoza potstickers. Served with a simple soy dipping sauce, these creamy filled dumplings disappeared quickly at our table. The pork ribs, encrusted with five-spice powder, also won round approval, a toothsome crackle encasing moist meat. Suzy Wong’s exudes playfulness In the salad category, there’s East Meets Wedge: a fresh iceberg quarter strewn with pieces of crisp bacon, sliced red onion, red and yellow grape tomatoes, and drenched in wasabi blue cheese dressing, zesty as it was inventive. Crunchy vermicelli rice noodles made a nice alternative to the crouton. The Sesame Tuna Tartare combined deep red cubes of sashimi, with similar cuts of radish and cucumber tossed in Yuzu (a Japanese citrus) vinaigrette, dusted with sesame seeds. Served in a ramekin, this just needed an extra toss to evenly distribute the grapefruity-ginger heat of the sauce and was well-enjoyed spooned onto a wonton crisp. Pass the Yum Bowls around your table, family style. Peanut Sauce Chicken Penang featured nuggets of chicken breast cooked with red and green peppers, sweet potato and onion in a sauce of silky coconut milk and peanut — rich, but a little salty. Lemongrass Vegetable Tofu Stir-fry was a lively saute of marinated tofu and all manner of veggies, including julienne peppers, green beans, sprouts, broccoli and mushrooms. You can order a side of either steamed brown or white rice to accompany the bowls. The creative desserts are not listed on the menu, but your attentive server will readily supply that information. The chocolate fondue, laced with bits of crystallized ginger, was a huge temptation — one that we’ll have to surrender to on another visit. You won’t feel guilty if you choose the of-the-season Caramel-Pumpkin wontons. Three light, crispy little packages were filled with savory pumpkin, dusted with confectioner’s sugar, drizzled with caramel sauce. The imaginative pairing showcased pure pumpkin flavor — we would have loved a little more caramel on the plate. Suzy Wong’s has allure, being playful and sophisticated. And her house is open seven nights, serving Yum plates, bowls and cocktails Wednesdays through Sundays into the wee hours of the morning. My, my. Dining with dragons was never more fun.
By Nancy Vienneau
FOR THE TENNESSEAN
